Master Class: How To Install An Outlet

Table of contents:

Master Class: How To Install An Outlet
Master Class: How To Install An Outlet

Video: Master Class: How To Install An Outlet

Video: Master Class: How To Install An Outlet
Video: Мастер выключатель. Контактор. Схема подключения. Выключение всего освещения в доме из одного места. 2024, March
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  • Preparatory work

    • Definition of terminal points, routing of wires
    • Tools and consumables
  • Installation of sockets. First step

    • Marking and cutting holes for boxes
    • Selection and installation of socket outlets
  • Installation of sockets. Second phase

    • Stripping and routing wires inside the block
    • Connecting and fixing the mechanism
  • Instead of an epilogue
Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

In fact, the installation of outlets is not such a difficult thing to be sure to invite professionals. It does not require any special labor costs, or the use of an expensive special tool, a simple home craftsman is quite capable of coping with the task on his own. We only need to seriously delve into a number of zests and nuances on which the success of the enterprise strongly depends - this is what we will do today.

Preparatory work

Definition of terminal points, routing of wires

Installing outlets begins with wiring. If you do not go into the design details, we note that a three-core copper wire with a cross-section of each conductor of 2.5 mm 2 should be led to the sockets, the VVGng brand has proven itself well. Note that in rare cases, when you need to power some powerful consumer (jacuzzi, electric stove, oven …), then 4-mm conductors lead to it, however, direct connection to terminals is often used there, rather than sockets. Wiring in residential premises is done hidden - in grooves, the conductor, even being in double insulation, must be enclosed in a protective self-extinguishing plastic corrugation (its diameter is 16 or 20 mm).

The location of the sockets, and, accordingly, the wire terminals, must be carefully thought out so that it is convenient to use electrical appliances, and there are no problems with installation. Everything is important here - from the height above the floor (now the generally accepted standard is 300 mm) to the position of the profiles of the subsystems (frames) and the number of sockets, types of wiring products in one frame. It would be most logical to draw up a working plan for the location of outlets and outputs on paper with a geometric reference to walls and furniture, and also indicate the composition of multi-post blocks.

Almost all manufacturers offer horizontal frames in which a maximum of 5 or 6 mechanisms can be placed, and vertical frames are available in two- or three-station design. Note that not only power sockets can be driven under one facade, but also switches, as well as all kinds of low-current sockets (telephone, internet, acoustics, in-house communications, TV …).

On one block of outlets, it is highly desirable to the extreme mechanism, we supply one power supply wire (if it has a cross-section of at least 2.5 squares), the rest will be powered from it with a loop, this is allowed by the rules of the PUE. Ideal from the point of view of reliability is considered to be the option when a separate wire goes to each outlet from the distribution box or even from the shield, but then the cost of conductors and labor costs increase significantly.

A very important point - leave the wire with a margin, a "tail" of at least 150-200 mm should come out of the wall. Short leads make installation very difficult.

Attention! Do not lead the wire out of the wall in the center of the socket, as the stabilizing drill of the crown is placed at this point. It is better to release the conductor a few centimeters to the side (on solid mineral substrates), or leave it behind the cladding before installing the installation boxes (for frame options).

Tools and consumables

As we have already said, there are no special problems with the tool for installing sockets, it is inexpensive and its almost complete set is available in the arsenal of most more or less trained home craftsmen.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

So, we need:

  • the level is a bubble rack, with a length of 200–500 mm (it is not very convenient to work with larger dimensions);
  • roulette;
  • thin screwdriver;
  • assembly knife with a retractable blade;
  • side cutters or pliers;
  • wire stripping pliers (desirable);
  • a crown from a set for wood with a diameter of 68 mm (attention, not every set has such a size of equipment);
  • screwdriver or drill;
  • installation boxes;
  • clips "Wago" or the like.

Installation of sockets. First step

Marking and cutting holes for boxes

On the wall, along the direction of the frame, along its axis (further we will talk about the block of sockets as a more complex installation option) we draw a vertical or horizontal line. For this, we must use the level. Now, according to our plan, we find the edge of the block and its center, mark these points on the resulting line. Best of all, the future block of outlets is perceived in space, if you put together several necessary installation boxes and attach them to the wall in the installation area.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

Most importantly, on the center line we mark the centers of each individual socket in the block. The approximate distance between them will be 68 mm.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

We collect the crown from the saw set, and cut it out at medium speed. It is very important here not to apply excessive efforts to the tool, so that at the exit the tooling does not break the material, since it will not be possible to securely fix the socket box on drywall with broken edges of the mounting hole. The situation is a little simpler if the installation is carried out on wood, MDF or other hard cladding, but no less carefully you need to work with plastic panels, due to their susceptibility to cracking.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

At this stage, beginners make many mistakes, which are very difficult to fix later. The most common are non-compliance with the level, breaking of edges, incorrect relative position of adjacent mounting holes. The first two causes of marriage are treated with a systematic increase in accuracy, but to solve the latter, you need to gain experience. To do this, we recommend that you practice marking and cutting on an unnecessary piece of drywall.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

Correctly drilled holes should not overlap each other, but there should not be a gap between them, only the edges of the circles touch. It is only then that we will cut the millimeter partition a little with a knife, if the configuration of the socket boxes requires it. The installation boxes enter into well-made holes easily and without distortions, otherwise the problem pulls the curvature of the socket outlets, the complexity or complete impossibility of fixing the electrical installation mechanisms, problems with installing the front panel and the top cover (the facade does not press against the wall, the plug comes into contact with difficulty).

Selection and installation of socket outlets

When installing electric points, a lot depends on the quality and type of installation boxes. It is not worth saving on these elements, especially since they are relatively inexpensive. A good socket has dense body walls with a complete absence of sprue marks and sagging. It has a pronounced rigid headboard, which prevents it from falling into the inside of the cladding. Such boxes have large mounting legs (not necessarily metal, polymer materials also work well), which reliably cling to the cladding sheet at the back. The undoubted advantage will be functional perforation, which allows you to make holes for cable entry and wiring between the sockets without extra effort.

It should be noted that the installation boxes of different manufacturers, like their sockets, differ slightly in shape, and this can sometimes cause serious difficulties in installation, although general mutual unification is in fashion nowadays. Therefore, it is best to purchase socket boxes from the company whose products you have chosen as the main wiring products, at least we recommend checking the compatibility of these elements if they are not from the same manufacturer.

In the installation boxes, using a knife, we remove the partitions that are formed when they are connected, as well as one (or several, if there are many conductors) plug for entering the cable into the mounting cavity.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

We collect the socket boxes in one block, sometimes special connecting elements are used for this.

A group of socket outlets, there can be up to six of them, we carefully insert into the already drilled holes, after having passed the supply wire into the outer box. Before performing this operation, we recommend to slightly move the mounting tabs from the extreme position with the screws so that they do not turn out to be twisted and do not get stuck, but are guaranteed to go along their grooves. This is especially true if the clamps are swivel. Then the legs begin to protrude beyond the circumference of the box, but in order not to damage the installation opening, the box should be squeezed a little in these places during installation.

We check the socket boxes installed in the holes horizontally and vertically, setting the level to the bottom or top of the front boards, since due to some noodles, you can also get skewed here. Usually the sides in these places are cut off and line up in one line, you can also check the alignment of the mounting screws with a level.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

Using a thin "Phillips" or small flat-head screwdriver, tighten the screws that activate the mounting feet until the latter rest against the cladding. You cannot overdo it here, so as not to squeeze the socket inward and not damage the contours of the hole.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

This completes the first stage of installing the outlets, it remains to check the performance of the wiring and start painting. Connection of wiring accessories and installation of facades are carried out after the completion of all finishing operations.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

Installation of sockets. Second phase

Stripping and routing wires inside the block

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

The first step is to strip the ends of the supply wire. First you need to remove the upper protective sheath from the cable. We take a knife and draw the edge of its blade along the sheath without cutting it (so as not to damage the insulation of single conductors), but only making a "notch". We move in the direction "out of the box". Along the line of this notch, the sheath can be torn by pulling on the conductors. Many electricians strip the conductors from the outer sheath before installing the boxes, which is very convenient. You can disassemble the wire to the very base of the box, but without going beyond it towards the inner space of the wall.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

Now you need to strip the edges of the conductors (they are usually marked with colors: brown, blue, yellow). The ideal tool for this is the stripping pliers that work quickly, efficiently and safely. As a last resort, you can use a knife. For this, at a distance of 7–10 mm from the edge of the core, an incision is made in a circle and the insulation is pulled together with pliers or a pressed knife blade. Here you cannot use planing movements and you cannot cut the insulation deeply, as this damages the thin copper wires of the conductor, and its nominal cross-section is guaranteed to be underestimated.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

In a similar way, the loop wires are prepared, with which we serially connect the mechanisms of the sockets located in the same block. These are pieces of wires with a length of at least 200 mm and a cross section of 2.5 mm 2, they are completely freed from the sheath and stripped of insulation from both ends.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

Loop elements with three conductors (line / phase, zero / neutral, ground) are laid through the bulkheads. All their ends should come out in adjacent socket boxes and be connected to the terminals of neighboring sockets - this is a reliable, long-proven option known to many installers. But the rules for electrical installations (PUE) require that the protective grounding conductor come to the outlet mechanism in parallel, with a separate branch. Therefore, as an option, such a branch is made in a socket box, where the power of the entire unit comes. A "Wago" clamp can be used here as a connecting element. If such a terminal block takes up too much space (for example, there are many posts in the block) and does not allow the installation of an outlet, then it is worth considering the use of a deep socket in this place.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

Connecting and fixing the mechanism

First, you need to disassemble the socket - unscrew and remove the front cover, remove the entire front panel. If the socket is assembled with a screw clamp, this screw should normally be removed to expose the hole in the terminal block. Starting from the edge of the block, we start the conductors for each outlet and tighten the screws as tight as possible (some manufacturers use "fast" spring-loaded clamps here). When performing this operation, it is very important to observe the conditional polarity of the connection - take it as a rule: the grounding yellow conductor is clamped in the middle, the phase (brown) is mounted on the left, zero (blue) will be on the right.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

The loop-through conductors of the loop are connected through paired clamps (on many sockets there are 6 of them - two for each conductor). If the terminal block is single, with one hole, then you will have to twist the wires in pairs. Do this as tightly and carefully as possible, use pliers.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

Be sure to check the reliability of the seating of the conductors - they just need to be tugged slightly. Poor contact under severe loads can lead to heating of wires, burning of conductive parts and even melting of materials.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

As the connection progresses, each mechanism is inserted into the installation box and temporarily fixed on the mounting screws. Here you need to pay attention that the wires are correctly located at the bottom of the socket box, since sometimes they are clamped by a mechanism, fall under the mounting foot and are deformed. Wires with rigid solid cores must first be folded with a "snake" so that they do not bend at an extreme angle during installation.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

When all the wiring accessories of the block are in their places, you need to start aligning them along the line. The third time we have to use the level, now we attach its body to the edges of the mechanism support. Each socket has an elongated recess for screws, so it can turn around its axis within a certain range. Our task is to put the products in one line and make sure that it is strictly horizontal or vertical. To facilitate the setting of multi-post combinations, the calipers have corresponding recesses.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

Once you understand the positioning of the mechanisms, you can tighten the mounting screws. After that, using other screws, we spread the mounting feet until they rest against the walls of the boxes. Few people use this fastening element now, but sometimes with their help it is possible to slightly correct the mistakes made at the stage of marking and installing the socket boxes. Some electricians simply remove these tabs, since they often, even in an undiluted state, prevent the socket from being replaced and its plastic part assembled.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

The final touch is the installation of the façade. First, a frame is applied to the sockets, then the front panels are inserted into their places through it and screwed into place. Only when all the covers sit normally in the desired position, and the screws catch on the threads, you can tighten them one by one. If the multi-post frame does not properly press against the wall, do not try to solve the problem by overtightening (as it can split), but check the correct alignment of the mechanisms or the quality of the wall finish near the outlet block.

Master class: How to install an outlet
Master class: How to install an outlet

At the end of the work, check the functionality of each socket. Power up the circuit and plug in any electrical appliance. The plug must go in and out of the contacts freely.

Instead of an epilogue

Sockets are not always installed on hollow walls. For their installation on plastered walls, special socket boxes "on concrete" are used. Then in the massif it is necessary to first knock out holes with a diameter of less than 70 mm; with extensive work, a perforator and a special crown with carbide teeth come to the rescue. To mount long blocks (4–6 devices), it makes sense to use a grinder with a diamond disc and cut out a rectangular opening. To install boxes on concrete, plaster mortar is applied to the drilled niche (advanced electricians either mix alabaster with putty, or use Perlfix-type glue), and then insert the socket boxes, position them relative to the front plane and fix them with wedges or front overlays. Further, the technology is no different.

According to the same principle as sockets (from the point of view of mechanics), switches and other wiring accessories are mounted. The differences there are only in the electrical part - the order and options for connecting conductors, ways of attaching the facades.

Separately, it should be said about such work as "transferring the outlet". Such operations are very undesirable, since they are associated with an atypical geometry for laying an additional cable, and also because it needs to be "extended". But if it is not possible to stretch a new wire from the junction box, then you need to make a branch inside the socket of the existing outlet. The connection of the wires must be done as in the junction box - either by twisting together with welding / soldering, or through a high-quality quick-clamping terminal block. One way or another, the donor socket cannot be completely removed and bricked up, even if it is not needed, so that through the removable facade there is free access to the connection point.

As you can see, there is nothing supernatural about this work. Do not be alarmed, well, one master does not have so many problems, we just tried to touch on all the pitfalls that can be encountered with a lack of experience. However, do not forget that there are no trifles in electrical installation, you need the utmost concentration and accuracy.

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