How To Make A Frame Of A Metal Interlevel Staircase

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How To Make A Frame Of A Metal Interlevel Staircase
How To Make A Frame Of A Metal Interlevel Staircase

Video: How To Make A Frame Of A Metal Interlevel Staircase

Video: How To Make A Frame Of A Metal Interlevel Staircase
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  • How to make a frame of a metal interlevel staircase
  • Selection of material for a metal frame
  • Selection of welding equipment

    • Arc ignition
    • Burnt or underburned metal during welding
    • Holding the arc and moving the electrode
    • Welding parts in various spatial positions and directions of electrode movement
  • Welding current parameters and required electrodes
  • Winder frame
  • Frame of a metal ladder on one string
  • Frame of steps "in a duck step"
  • Anti-corrosion treatment of metal structures
  • Conclusion

Read about how to make a frame of a metal interlevel staircase at home and what materials and equipment will be required for this, read this article.

How to make a frame of a metal interlevel staircase

Of course, every owner who decides to equip an attic or build a cottage, on two or more levels, has the right to decide what suits him more financially - buying a prefabricated staircase, ordering a staircase from some specialized company or making it yourself. Everywhere has its pros and cons.

So, when buying a ready-made universal kit, there is a risk of not getting into steps along the height of the opening, which is fraught with injuries for home and guests. Just a couple - three centimeters of difference from the last step to the exit platform, and that's it - bumps, bruises, fractures … Moreover, the price of such a set can be impressive and can reach $ 2,000!

No less, and most often - more expensive is the purchase of a ladder in a specialized company. Yes, in this case, adjusting the steps to the level, most likely, everything will be in order. Surely there will be an original design and a creative approach, but the speed of your order will depend on the workload of the company's specialists and it may turn out that the execution of your order with the prepayment made will take a long time. And there are also one-day firms …

"If you want to do something well, take it and do it yourself!" - this paraphrased expression is the best suited to the proposed method of making an interlevel staircase. At the lowest cost (no more than $ 400), you can make the stairs at your own discretion and at the pace that you can handle. What is needed for this? First of all, choose the material and decide exactly on the project.

Selection of material for a metal frame

The most profitable construction in terms of material costs can be considered a wooden staircase on a metal frame with one bowstring and welded stringers. Obviously, in this case, you do not need to spend money on two bowstrings, as would be required for a ladder with a wooden frame. There is no need for risers that can be ignored, as the metal frame always looks great in any interior. And there is no need for additional fastening of the ladder, since with the correct selection of material it can carry a very heavy load.

So, in order to make the metal frame of the stairs, which will be installed in the opening, the preparation of which was described in the previous article, you will need three types of rolled metal:

  • Electric-welded square steel pipe 80 x 80 mm - 6 m;
  • Electric-welded rectangular pipe 80 x 45 mm - 6 m;
  • Square pipe 20 x 20 mm - 60 m.

The purpose of rolled metal products is shown in Table 1.

Rental name Quantity (p / m) Place of installation Total (p / m) Welded square pipe 80 x 80 mm 3 Bowstring 3 Welded square pipe 80 x 80 mm 1.5 Winder frame 4.5 Welded square pipe 80 x 80 mm 1.5 Kosoura 6 Welded pipe 80 x 45 mm 2,3 Winder frame 2,3 Welded pipe 80 x 45 mm 3.7 Fencing posts 6 Square tube 20 x 20 mm 1.5 Winder frame 1.5 Square tube 20 x 20 mm 2.7 x 9 Frame of steps "duck step" 25.8 Square tube 20 x 20 mm 25 Railings and balusters 50.8 Square tube 20 x 20 mm 9.2 Fences and railings 60

In addition, you will need the following supporting materials:

  • Cutting discs diameter 125 mm thickness 1.6 mm - 12 pcs.;
  • Grinding discs, diameter 125 mm - 3 pcs.;
  • DC welding electrodes diameter 3.2 mm - 5 kg;
  • DC welding electrodes diameter 1.6 mm - 1 kg;
  • Rust converter - 2 l;
  • White - spirit - 1 l;
  • Metal primer - 2 l.

And equipment:

  • Welding inverter;
  • Angle grinder (grinder) with a power of at least 800 W;
  • Drill;
  • Safety glasses, transparent;
  • Welder's mask;
  • Pencil, tape measure, square;
  • Welding table;
  • Clamp clamping adjustable from 0 to 800 mm;
  • Vice;
  • Primer and transducer brushes;
  • Rags for metal degreasing;
  • Welding gloves and leggings.

All of the above metal can be replaced with similar stainless steel rolled products. In this case, electrodes are also needed for welding stainless steel structures. And there will be no need for anti-corrosion treatment. However, the price of stainless steel is so high that the cost of a ladder will roughly quadruple!

Selection of welding equipment

Manual arc welding of metals is not an easy task. The profession of a welder requires a lot of practical experience and comprehension of the theoretical foundations of welding. But with the advent of hand-held inverters, things have become much easier. These machines solve almost all welder's problems in one fell swoop. And these problems are as follows:

Arc ignition

Conventional welding transformers maintain the output voltage, which directly depends on the input voltage, and at a low voltage in the network, it becomes unrealistic to ignite the arc - the electrode "sticks", and when current is added, on the contrary, the metal starts to burn out. The inverters are designed in such a way that the output voltage does not depend on the input voltage, and the specified current is maintained regardless of the voltage in the network. All modern inverters are equipped with systems from sticking electrodes and light arc ignition.

Burnt or underburned metal during welding

These problems are primarily due to the fact that it is difficult to maintain a fixed value of the welding current in conventional welding machines. It is always changeable and directly depends on the mains voltage. In welding inverters, the current value is set by setting the potentiometer to a certain position in accordance with the welding current scale. When the metal is overheated, the weld is weakened, cavities and through holes appear in the parts to be welded. If underburned, the seam is also weakened, and the parts to be welded can easily come apart.

Holding the arc and moving the electrode

This problem presents the most serious challenge for the novice welder. After the arc ignites, you need to give the electrode a tilt of about 15 ° and begin to move it relative to the joint of the parts to be welded. Moreover, the direction of movement and tilt of the electrode can be of two types - tilt towards the movement of the electrode and in the opposite direction. Both of these methods of moving the electrode are correct, but the quality and appearance of the weld will vary slightly. Simultaneously with the longitudinal movement of the electrode, it is necessary to move it in the transverse direction during combustion. The length of the arc depends on this, which can be short or long. All basic types of electrodes are designed for short arc welding, that is, you need to constantly feed the electrode in the transverse direction so thatso that the distance to the surfaces to be welded is about two diameters of the electrode. Welding inverters, having the ability to hold a given current, and also because this current is constant, are not very critical to the length of the arc, and the quality of the seam depends little on which arc was used to work.

Welding parts in various spatial positions and directions of electrode movement

When welding parts that cannot be laid on a horizontal surface, it is important to understand that gravity acts equally on a drop of water and on a drop of molten metal. And the main thing when welding vertical or ceiling seams is to stop in time and wait until the drop of metal inside the seam cools down a little, and immediately ignite the arc nearby, moving, thus, all the way up to the end of the seam. This method of welding is called tack welding. And to master it is not difficult, again, working with an inverter.

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Photo 1. Appearance of an inexpensive welding inverter

Today, both the external appearance and the internal filling of any inverter are practically the same for all manufacturers. It makes no sense for a home craftsman to buy professional equipment. This equipment, of course, is stable in operation, its performance does not depend on the magnitude of the mains voltage, and various additional devices can be connected to them, such as a torch for argon-arc welding, but it is very expensive. So, the most famous Finnish inverters cost from $ 800!

However, there are models for home use. That is, such devices cannot be cooked around the clock, their output parameters are relatively dependent on the mains voltage, but in general they have proven themselves perfectly in work. Photo 1 shows a typical example of such an inverter. This apparatus, at an average cost of $ 200, has built-in functions for arc control, light ignition, and blocking when the electrode sticks.

Experience shows that welding inverters of this kind can be trusted, and even if the machine fails after at least one ladder has been welded with it, it will already pay for itself.

But in addition to choosing the welding machine itself, you need to choose the right electrodes and learn how to set the welding current.

Welding current parameters and required electrodes

Experience has shown that it is better to use imported welding electrodes to work with such inexpensive inverters. Photo 2 shows the electrodes of the Swedish concern ESAB OK 46.30

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Photo 2. Inexpensive inverters prefer imported electrodes

These electrodes are designed for the most inexperienced welder. They ignite very well, they can be cooked in any direction. Even if a burnout occurs, the hole can be easily tightened with some skill.

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Photo 3. The welding current is adjusted by simply turning the rheostat

The value of the welding current directly depends on the thickness of the welded metal. Photo 3 shows the inverter welding current scale. The photo shows a current of 65 A. If you believe the manufacturer's marks on the scale, then with this current you need to cook the metal using electrodes with a diameter of 2.5 mm, but in fact, such a current is needed for high-quality welding of metal 3 mm thick with electrodes with a diameter of 3.2 mm. But if you follow the recommended current value, then for a 3.2 mm electrode it will start from 90 A, but for a 3 mm thick metal this will be a lot and the metal will be burned out.

In general, there is a rule for setting the welding current. It is necessary to set the current average for a given diameter of the electrode, then briefly ignite the arc on the test workpiece. If the deposited drop of metal is almost round, then the current is small, if the drop is flat, and there are a lot of stuck splashes around it, then the current is too large, but if the drop is slightly convex and the adjacent surface is clean, then the current is what you need - you can cook!

After familiarizing yourself with the short course of the welder, you can proceed to the practical part. But before you independently take up the inverter holder, it is worth remembering a few safety rules for the production of welding:

  • Do not work indoors. Provide good ventilation, and it is best to try to do as much work as possible outdoors;
  • The arc emits harsh ultraviolet radiation. Work with long sleeves;
  • Pants should be pulled over the shoes. A drop of molten metal in a shoe can cause severe burns;
  • Always use a protective mask. You cannot look at the arc - a corneal burn! Now there are comfortable masks with chameleon glass. While the arc does not burn, the glass is transparent, but as soon as it lights up, the glass darkens with lightning speed;
  • Do not use normal gloves. Always use heavy-duty suede welding leggings. Only they can be guaranteed to protect against burns;
  • Do not grasp the electrode with your bare hands! Danger of electric shock!

Winder frame

In this example, the staircase, which will be inscribed in the prepared opening, consists of two parts: a frame of two winder steps and a bowstring with welded on kosoura and frame steps in a "duck step", on which wooden steps of the corresponding shape will be installed on top.

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Photo 4. Frame of winder steps

First you need to make the frame of the winder steps. It is shown in photo 4. As you can see, this is a complex knot that can be divided into several parts. The number 1 marks the front pillar of the frame. It is welded from a pipe 80x80 mm. The end walls of this part are welded with plugs, and support pads are welded to the legs, in which holes are drilled for mounting anchor bolts.

Number 2 in the photo shows the frame of the upper winder. It consists of 5 parts welded to the A-pillar. As you can see, pipes with a section of 80x45 mm and 20x20 mm were used for this frame. Moreover, the semicircular part is made of a straight pipe. If you do not have pipe bending equipment at your disposal, then you can make this part by cutting a straight pipe of the appropriate length on three sides with a step of 2–2.5 cm. After that it is easy to bend it and give the required bending radius, and weld the resulting slots with an electrode with a diameter of 2 mm welding current 45 A.

Under the number 3 is the frame of the first winder. It consists of four parts. The count of all other steps depends on the level of this step. In this example, the height of the first step of the frame is taken equal to 18 cm. Of these, 2 cm will be spent on deepening the racks into the existing coating, and then another 4 cm of thickness of the wooden step will be added to the remaining 16 cm. And thus, the net level of the first step will reach 20 cm above the floor level. Accordingly, the second step should reach a level of 20 cm from the first, and the height of the front frame rack (item 1) will be 38 cm.

All knots are welded one by one, starting from the front frame, then they are made up on a flat table and made with tacks. After that, the position of the entire frame as a whole is adjusted, and all joints are completely scalded.

Frame of a metal ladder on one string

The next stage of work on the construction of a metal interlevel staircase is welding of a straight march with stringers and its installation on site. This work will require a square welded pipe 80 x 80 mm. Before proceeding with the installation of the stringers, you need to cut the pipe, which will work as a bowstring in place. To do this, you need to free access to the upper steel beam of the opening, and fix the frame of the winder steps on the floor of the lower level using anchors. Photo 5 shows the upper beam prepared for measurement and installation.

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Photo 5. The upper beam is prepared for measurements and installation

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Photo 6. Overlap from the side of the string to the frame of the winder steps

After these works, it is necessary to measure the distance from the top of the beam to the top of the frame of the winder steps, taking into account the fact that it is necessary to overlap it from the side of the string (photo 6).

This distance must be set aside on a workpiece from a square tube 80 x 80 mm of suitable length. Then you need to measure the distance from the bottom edge of the upper beam to the bottom point of the winder's frame. Put it aside on the pipe, having previously marked the exit angle, which can be measured with any goniometric tool, from the top point of contact between the beam and the future bowstring.

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Photo 7. Trying the bowstring at the installation site

After all the points have been marked on the bowstring blank, you need to cut the pipe with a grinder and try it on in place, correcting it if necessary. Photo 7 shows where the upper edge of the bowstring touches the beam before it is welded.

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Photo 8. Bowstring with stringers installed in the opening

The entire bowstring with stringers, installed on the frame of the winders, is shown in photo 8. As you can see in the photo, stringers are nothing more than segments of the same square pipe from which the bowstring itself is made, welded to it at right angles with a step equal to the height of the steps. In this case, it is 20 cm. The top of the stringers is cut in such a way that when the bowstring is installed in the opening, horizontal platforms are obtained, onto which the step frames will be welded afterwards.

Frame of steps "in a duck step"

Ladders with a slope of more than 40 ° are extremely inconvenient for walking on them. To eliminate this disadvantage, the steps are made in a special, paddle-shaped form and installed crosswise. Thus, no matter how steep the stairs come out, the tread will always be of sufficient width so that it is convenient to put your foot not only on the rise, but also on the descent. The only drawback of such stairs is that you need to waddle along them, like a duck. Hence the name of the stairs - "duck step".

Thus, given that the slope of the ladder in this example is 47 °, the “duck step” option is the best fit for solving the problem of the convenience of the ladder for descent and ascent. But the frames of such steps are much more complicated than ordinary straight ones. To simplify the task, you can make frames without rounding, and round off only the wooden steps themselves, which will be installed on top of the metal ones.

The frame material is a 20 x 20 mm square tube. In total, in this case, you need to weld 9 step frames. They are made separately, and then welded on the stringers in place.

Before starting work, you need to complete a drawing or sketch, which indicates the dimensions of the parts. It is enough to make it by hand on any piece of paper and always have it before your eyes (photo 9).

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Photo 9. Sketch of the frame of the step "in a duck step" with dimensions

The material needs to be cut according to the dimensions in the drawing. You can cut it into all stages at once, or you can cut it into one or two, so that in case of an error you do not spoil a lot of metal at once. In industrial conditions, hydraulic guillotine shears are used for cutting. At home, only a grinder is available. To make it easier to cut corners, you can purchase a universal grinder jig, which exactly maintains the given angles. Photo 10 shows blanks cut by a grinder for two stages.

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Photo 10. Blanks for frames of two steps

Further, the details of the frame must be prepared for welding. That is, collect them on a flat, flat surface and align them with a square. This process is shown in photo 11. After the parts are fitted to one another, they need to be pressed down from above with blanks from the other step, so that they do not come apart when they start to be welded (photo 12). A template can be made for this purpose. On a piece of OSB, for example, draw a step in full size and screw screws at the corners and centers of the outer lines. In the resulting improvised conductor, you need to fill the frame parts and calmly grab them. But for the nine steps that are required to be welded in this example, you can do without a conductor.

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Photo 11. Alignment of the steps frame parts under the angle

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Photo 12. The exposed frame details must be pressed down with blanks of another step

After the parts of the frame prepared for welding are pressed, you can grab them in several places. Then you need to check the geometry of the step frame again with a square, if necessary, correct something and completely weld the joints on one side and on the other. Photo 13 shows the frame, welded on one side at the joints, and in photo 14 - the already completely welded frame.

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Photo 13. The frame is welded on one side

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Photo 14. The frame of the step is completely welded

So that the seams do not interfere with the installation of the wooden step, they must be sanded. It is dangerous to use a conventional cutting disc for this! You need to purchase a turning disk. It is much thicker than the cut-off and has a convex shape, which gives it greater strength. Photo 15 shows such a disc, and photo 16 shows a step prepared for grinding the seams. In order not to hold the frame with your hands, you need to fix it on the table with a clamp. After sanding, the frame should look as shown in photo 17.

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Photo 15. Turning disc for grinding seams

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Photo 16. The frame of the step is prepared for grinding

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Photo 17. Frame after grinding the seams

After sanding, the frames must be treated against corrosion and primed.

Anti-corrosion treatment of metal structures

Despite the fact that now almost all paints for metal are loudly positioned as "applied directly over rust", you do not need to trust this advertising move. The rust that remains under the paint layer does not transform into a sulfate protective layer, but remains rust. As a result, the rust-proof paintwork will not last even three years. Therefore, it is better to perform anti-corrosion treatment of metal structures.

This procedure consists of three parts: degreasing, rust remover and priming. Degreasing is done with a rag, abundantly moistened with solvent. For this purpose, you can use gasoline "Galosha", white spirit, acetone, solvent and any other organic solvent.

Further, a rust converter is abundantly applied to the surface of the degreased metal. This is best done with a brush, and the transducer itself is poured into a cuvette, as shown in photo 18.

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Photo 18. The converter must be poured into a plastic cuvette

After the rust converter has reacted on the metal surface, it will be covered with a protective sulfate layer, on top of which a primer can be applied.

The primer, as a rule, is used in the GF - 21 brand, brown or gray. It can be applied with a brush or spray. Apply one layer, which is allowed to dry well for 24 hours. Photo 19 shows the finished step frames after priming.

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Photo 19. Steps frames after priming

Conclusion

When deciding on the independent production of an interlevel staircase, you need to be aware that you cannot fit all the experience and prevent all mistakes in one article. Experience is accumulated only by practice. Therefore, some mistakes will be inevitable, but after going through this stage and making your own metal ladder frame, we can assume that you have mastered the basics of welding. The frame shown in the example was made completely independently using the equipment mentioned in the article.

But after the bowstring with the stringers and the frame of the winder steps are ready, you can proceed with the installation of the step frames on the bowstring, making wooden steps, railings and stair rails. Read about all this in the next article.

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