We Build A Fireplace With Our Own Hands

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We Build A Fireplace With Our Own Hands
We Build A Fireplace With Our Own Hands

Video: We Build A Fireplace With Our Own Hands

Video: We Build A Fireplace With Our Own Hands
Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by Brick 2024, March
Anonim
  • Seat selection
  • Calculations of the parameters of the fireplace
  • How to build a fireplace - materials
  • Foundation construction
  • Fireplaces and stoves - rubble concrete foundation
  • Working drawings of the fireplace
  • Preliminary preparation of materials for the fireplace
  • Wood-burning fireplaces - masonry
  • Chimney outlet
  • Installation of metal elements
  • External finishing of the fireplace
Mantel
Mantel

Contemplation of an open flame will never get bored, in any case, as the famous catch phrase says. Fire evokes strange feelings that have been dormant in a person for many years; we have some kind of genetic connection with it, uniting with our distant ancestors who spent long winter evenings in front of the fire of the hearth. No wonder there is even a special screensaver for a PC monitor, depicting a living flame of a fireplace. If the device of a fireplace in a city dwelling will create difficulties even for professional craftsmen, then the owners of summer cottages and country estates are quite capable of creating a fireplace on their own. Do-it-yourself brick fireplace - the sequence of work and the necessary materials - in this article.

The fireplace is a simple stove, its firebox is open and looks more like a niche in the wall. The room is heated by radiation of heat energy, while the heat transfer of the fireplace is low - it is equal to 10-20%, other heat is drawn into the chimney. In cold winters, relying only on the fireplace for heating is not worth it, it will not be enough. The fireplace's fuel chamber (the fuel burns in it) should be wide, but not deep, the walls (side and top) are made with expansion (collapse) towards the heated room (at an angle of 45o-60o). This design will allow you to direct more heat energy into the room.

The fireplace can be placed outside the wall, built into a brick wall (its thickness must be at least two bricks) or attached to the wall. The fireplace, due to its design, significantly improves the ventilation of the room, but it is not able to accumulate and evenly give off heat. The greatest amount of heat is generated directly in front of the fuel chamber.

Seat selection

The end wall is the best for arranging a fireplace; you can arrange a fireplace between two inner walls - in the corner. On the other hand, an extremely unfortunate place for creating a fireplace would be a wall located in front of the windows - as already mentioned, this type of stove causes active air circulation and if the windows are poorly sealed, drafts will begin.

Calculations of the parameters of the fireplace

The dimensions of this type of stove are tied to the volume of the rooms in which they are arranged. For example, the area of a fireplace insert for rooms with a volume of up to 70 cubic meters should be 1:50 or 1:70, i.e. from 0.2 to 0.4 m 2.

The parameters of the furnace opening are determined as follows: the ratio of height and width should be 2: 3, i.e. with an area of 0.2, 0.3 or 0.4 m 2, the furnace hole (portal) will have the following dimensions - in the first case, 36x45 cm, in the second - 44x67 cm and in the third - 52x77 cm.

The ratio of the depth of the furnace to its height should be in the range from 1: 2 to 2: 3, these parameters are very important, because non-observance of these proportions in the direction of increasing the depth of the firebox will reduce heat transfer, and if it decreases, the fireplace will begin to smoke the room. The size of the depth of the fuel chamber must be maintained in the following proportions: with a total area of the firebox equal to 0.2 m 2 - the depth should be from 18 to 24 cm, equal to 0.3 m 2 - from 22 to 30 cm and equal to 0.4 m 2 - from 26 to 35 cm.

The area of the smoke hole for our fireplace depends on the selected area of the fireplace insert, it should be 8-15 times less, i.e. with a furnace area of 0.2 m 2 - 0.02 m 2, with an area of 0.3 m 2 - 0.03 m 2 and with an area of 0.4 m 2 - 0.04 m 2. A chimney made of bricks will have the following length and width: 14x14 cm and 14x27 cm. If a chimney with a rounded cross section is planned, then it will be from 8 to 14 cm in diameter. Small and medium-sized fireplaces require a chimney with a height of 4 to 5 meters.

How to build a fireplace - materials

To build a fireplace you will need: red brick, rubble stone, clay, sand, cement and rubble. To build a fireplace that can be used for a really long time, you need to carefully choose a brick - by the piece. Brick for fireplaces should be perfect: no flaws, have a uniform structure of orange-red color, regular shape with smooth surfaces and right angles. Each brick must be checked by hitting it with a hammer - it should make a clear sound.

Fireplace construction
Fireplace construction

If the brick has undergone insufficient heat treatment, it will be of a lighter shade and its fracture is heterogeneous in structure. After being hit with a hammer, such a brick will emit a dull sound, which indicates poor-quality firing.

Burnt brick has a blue-black or dark gray color, traces of melting are visible on its surface. Hitting such a brick with a hammer will produce a high pitched sound. If there are white spots on the surface of the brick, they indicate a broken drying technology (it is overdried). The required number of bricks is about 200-300 pieces (depending on the size of the fireplace and excluding the chimney).

Fireplaces and stoves are laid out using a mixture of clay, cement and sand as a binder. There is an opinion that wood-burning fireplaces last the longest if you use Cambrian clay (blue) when creating them. But red and even ordinary clay is quite suitable. If you are using refractory bricks, then refractory clay is required for the masonry. You will need from 0.2 to 0.5 m3 of clay (depending on its fat content).

When creating a fireplace with your own hands, you need to take care of the cement. Packaged Portland cement grade 200 or 300 is quite suitable. Requirement: 70-100 kg (including foundation work).

Sand for masonry mortar: fraction 0.2-1.5 mm, maximally cleaned of dirt and debris. Requirement: 0.7 m3 (including foundation work). Crushed stone of a fraction from 2 to 6 cm will be required - it will be needed for the construction of the fireplace foundation. Requirement: 0.2 m3. In addition to the basic materials, you will need: a smoke damper (it is also a stove valve), a grate, reinforcement rods (about 15-20 pcs., With a diameter of 8 to 10 mm, 700 mm long).

When creating a fireplace with your own hands, you need to take care of the foundation.

The total weight of the fireplace structure will average at least 600 kg, and in most cases - more than a ton, so the fireplace will need its own independent foundation. It is much easier to build a foundation for a fireplace even during the construction of a house, otherwise it will be quite difficult to build it. If it is planned to build a fireplace in a completed building, then it will be necessary to attract specialists who can calculate the load of the future fireplace on the existing supporting structures.

Foundation construction

A fireplace will require a foundation with larger plan dimensions (10-15 cm) than the base of the fireplace. It is important to maintain a gap between the foundations of the building and the fireplace of at least 50-55 mm - it must be filled with sand. The ligation of foundations (building and fireplace) cannot be performed - they have different draft, which will lead to the formation of cracks.

Fireplace foundation construction
Fireplace foundation construction

The pit for the fireplace foundation must be 600 mm deep for a one-story house and 700-1000 mm for a two-story house, or its depth must correspond to that specified when making the building foundation. At the bottom of the excavated pit, it is necessary to place a leveling cushion made of sand (on non-heaving soils) or sand and gravel (on heaving soils, composition: sand-40%, gravel-60%).

Note: heaving soils include silty and fine sands, sandy loams, loams and clays - i.e. soils widespread in Russia. Upon reaching a certain level of moisture, the volume of such soils during freezing (in winter) increases, causing a layer-by-layer rise of the soil within the depth to which it freezes. As a result, an uneven rise of foundations occurs, if the loads acting on them do not compensate for the heaving forces of the soil. Soil swelling causes deformations in predominantly light buildings, most of which are built in rural areas.

A pillow that prevents the effect of soil heaving on the foundation of fireplaces and stoves should have the same height as the pillow of the main foundation of the building (for example, in the Moscow region, its height should be from 100 to 600 mm, depending on the degree of soil heaving). The sand and gravel cushion must be laid in layers, with each new layer moistened. In the process of laying, compaction (automatic or manual) and alignment of the base with a level are necessary.

Before laying the sand and gravel cushion, it is required to level and compact the soil at the bottom of the pit. If it rains after excavating the pit, then before laying the pillow it is necessary to remove the puddles from it (scoop out), if the bottom soil has become fluid-plastic, it must be cut to a stable one (as a rule, by several centimeters).

Fireplaces and stoves - rubble concrete foundation

It will be cheaper to build a foundation made of rubble concrete. For him, formwork is needed, sheathed from the inside with roofing material (roofing felt, glassine) or coated with bitumen - in order to exclude the leakage of cement milk into the sand. The formwork is placed on a prepared base, the first layer of large stones (up to 15 cm in diameter) is laid inside, rubble is poured between them. A cement slurry is poured on top (1 part of cement for 3 parts of sand), it is prepared on the basis of one day of work.

Then the sand is mixed with cement - the solution is thoroughly mixed with the constant addition of water to the state of thick sour cream (at a ratio of 1 part of water to 1 part of cement). Each new layer of rubble stone is laid after the previous layer has hardened, preferably at intervals of a day. The last - the top layer needs to be leveled, check its horizontal position and close it on top with plastic wrap. It is necessary to withstand a weekly period before starting laying the fireplace. The distance from the top of the resulting foundation to the floor level should be at least 60-70 mm.

Working drawings of the fireplace

To build a fireplace, it is necessary to prepare a drawing of each row - ordering, drawings of sections and a facade. Each row must be drawn on sheets of paper in a cage, marking each fragment of the row with conventional symbols (not only full bricks will be used, but also half, three-quarter bricks) and each row is numbered one by one.

Working drawings of the fireplace
Working drawings of the fireplace

Preliminary preparation of materials for the fireplace

Each of the bricks needs to be examined by separating bricks with serious deviations from the standard dimensions (65x120x250 mm). To build a fireplace, it is important to pay special attention to the quality of the ingredients of the masonry mortar - they must be as clean as possible of any foreign matter. For this:

  • the sand is carefully sifted through a fine mesh sieve and repeatedly soaked in clean water until the water after "elutriation" becomes clean;
  • clay is soaked in water for several days (from 7 to 10 days). It must be stirred from time to time until a homogeneous mass is formed;
  • before laying the fireplace, the red brick is soaked for 30 seconds in water - until air bubbles are removed. If wood-burning fireplaces are laid out of refractory bricks, then it is enough only to rinse it with water to remove dust.

Prepare a clay-based masonry mortar: pour dry, prepared sand with clay mortar and mix thoroughly until a state similar to a thick jelly is obtained. We check the quality of the mixture as follows: roll a “sausage” from the solution with a diameter of no more than 10-15 mm - if its shape is preserved, it does not crumble and does not stick to our hands, then the solution is ready. After two or three trial mixes, a high-quality solution will be obtained - it should not spread under its own weight, stick to a trowel or crumble into fragments.

Wood-burning fireplaces - masonry

Before you start laying the brick on the clay mortar, you need to draw the contours of the fireplace firebox on the wall. On the upper part of the chimney foundation, sheets of roofing roofing or roofing material are laid with a double layer - for waterproofing. When laying out a fireplace with your own hands, it is important to remember that the brick must be soaked before laying, otherwise it will draw water from the masonry mortar.

It is laid out under the firebox from the inside with refractory bricks. The back and side walls of the firebox are laid out dry, then the laying is done with bandaging the seams. The side walls of the fireplace must be made of heat-resistant bricks, they must be at least 200 mm thick, the minimum thickness of the back wall is 100 mm.

Wood-burning fireplaces
Wood-burning fireplaces

Before laying, we clarify the location of the fireplace: you need to dry out the bricks of the first row (according to the drawing), then the bricks that form one row of the chimney. Then lower plumb lines from the ceiling to the corners of the chimney and make sure that the distance between the floor beams and the pipe, rafters and pipe is more than 120 mm (to create a horizontal fire cut).

The main difference between laying a brick wall and laying out fireplaces is that each new row of the fireplace is first laid out dry (without mortar) - the selection of bricks is carried out, they are pressed and adjusted to each other, taking into account the dressing of the seams. In this case, the chipped parts of the brick must either be turned outward or closed with masonry.

The corner bricks should be laid first, controlling their position in relation to each other (they must be strictly at the same level). This will require a level and rules. Next, the outer row (perimeter) is laid out, then the middle.

If the firebox is lined with refractory bricks, then it cannot be tied up with a simple brick from the outer masonry - it will be much easier to lay out the firebox entirely of refractory or refractory bricks. When creating a fireplace with your own hands, check the corners of the first masonry row for squareness using a measuring cord (diagonally between opposite sides), the difference between them should not be more than 5 mm.

Fireplace insert
Fireplace insert

The masonry mortar is applied by hand - with the right hand, with the left - brick is laid. Seams (both vertical and horizontal) must be completely filled with mortar, they must be made as thin as possible (seam in the "undercut"). The seams facing the inside of the firebox and chimney can be convex, while all excess mortar is removed. In less critical parts of the fireplace structure, where gas leaks through the seams are possible, they can be performed in a "wasteland" (the depth of the depression is not more than 10 mm), followed by plastering. The turns and contractions of the gas threshold and chimney are given a rounded shape, for which the brick is rounded.

The corners are laid out exactly on a plumb line to facilitate the task; installation in the corners of a steel angle or rail is possible. If the design of the fireplace to be executed has a constant cross-section, then it is convenient to lay out such a fireplace using a mobile formwork. In each masonry row, it is required to bandage the seams (by ½ brick), each laid out row is carefully measured to a horizontal position, and the corners and walls to a vertical one.

The good performance of the fireplace directly depends on the smoothness of the interior surfaces. Therefore, it is necessary to lay the brick so that it is turned into the inner part of the fireplace structure only with whole edges, otherwise it will quickly collapse. Do not level the inside of the chimney with clay solution, as the clay will crumble and clog the chimney. The only way to achieve a smooth interior surface is with a neat and accurate masonry. You can fill up small potholes in the brick and smooth the seams on the inside of the chimney with a cloth soaked in clay solution - this operation is performed every 4-5 rows laid out.

Each next row during the construction of fireplaces is laid out only after the complete masonry of the previous one.

Chimney outlet

After removing the chimney to the roof, brick rows are laid out on a cement-sand mortar (1 part of cement to 3 parts of sand). The chimney must be reliably protected from the ingress of precipitation - with tin chimneys or a brick ceiling with a roofing iron cap.

Installation of metal elements

The metal frame of the fireplace insert is fastened with riveted steel strips (3 mm thick) - they are inserted into the masonry joint and filled with mortar. Steel strips can be replaced with annealed wire bundles (2 mm in diameter), they also attach the view doors and ovens.

It should be taken into account that metal has higher thermal expansion rates than brick, therefore, a seal made of asbestos cord (5 mm thick) must be installed between the masonry and the furnace frames.

The upper bar of the furnace door cannot be used as a support for the brickwork, you can use a strip of cast iron, and the best way would be to install a brick lintel with a lap, wedge or "in the lock". All elements of the fireplace made of metal must be set taking into account their expansion when heated - set a gap of at least 5-10 mm, otherwise the fireplace will be destroyed by them. In general, the fewer metal elements in the construction of the fireplace, the better.

External finishing of the fireplace
External finishing of the fireplace

External finishing of the fireplace

Most of all, facing with tiles, patterned or smooth, is suitable for fireplaces. It should be noted that cladding with any ceramic tile is impractical - such tiles will quickly fall off. You can leave the fireplace without any special external finish - brick, painted with chalk (glue) or lime paints, you can paint only the seams.

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