Video: How To Choose And Install A Sink
We sell imported sinks of various sizes and designs. Actually, according to the type of installation, there are two options: sinks that cut into the tabletop, and those that are put on the cabinet as a cover. Washers made in Finland, Germany, etc. are distinguished by enviable durability and not weak cost: German sinks cost from $ 55 and almost indefinitely, Finnish ones are even more expensive - from $ 65-70.
The same products made in Turkey are several times cheaper, but made of thinner material. The cost of Turkish sinks starts from $ 13-14. Sizes for pedestals 45, 50, 60, 80 and 90. There are sinks with two compartments - this is convenient, but the pedestal will be twice as large. So if the kitchen is big, then of course …
Domestic mixers are the cheapest on the market, plus free replacement of gaskets in the housing office … it's worth considering. It is better to buy imported ball type, which is certainly not cheap, but convenient, reliable and practical. As for the mixers made in Turkey, I want to warn you: there are practically no gaskets for them. The store sells gaskets for "Turkish made cranes", but this is not quite what you need. If you look closely, the "branded" gaskets have a curly shape, and those that are sold are cut out of sheet rubber, and therefore do not function for long. The second drawback is that the axle boxes in Turkish mixers have a strange property after a while to fly off the guide and the water stops opening. In any case, before buying, you need to find out if there are spare parts (axle boxes, gaskets) on sale.
We recommend changing the siphon, which usually comes with a sink, to a domestic one with a water trap. This is a siphon plus a knee in one person. As a rule, the old knee has time to rot by the time the sink is installed, so you will kill two birds with one stone.
I chose the cheapest sink - a cover made in Turkey 50x60. Sink cabinets cost $ 20-30, but upon closer inspection, it turned out that they have several design flaws:
- they do not have a back wall, and instead of it, all free space in the cabinet is blocked by a fastening element that keeps the entire structure from falling on its side Turkish sinks are damn elastic. In order not to get a sink - a transformer, I decided to develop my own design.
A sheet of chipboard, sufficient for manufacturing, stands: 50 rubles regular and 190 rubles laminated.
We begin installation with the manufacture of the curbstone. As a material, I used a sheet of ordinary chipboard 16 mm with subsequent painting, which significantly reduced the cost of the structure, but if funds allow, it should be made of laminated. The fasteners of the entire structure are aluminum or steel angles - this is very technologically advanced. The curbstone is assembled in one day, i.e. weekend design. Sunday can be used to connect and wash the sink.
Buy furniture hinges on the door only completely metal, because the door is quite massive.
The advantages of this design are as follows:
the back wall strengthens the entire cabinet well and prevents debris from getting behind the sink;
there is a lot of free space inside;
the usable space can be increased by installing shelves on the side walls of the cabinet.
The highlight of the design are the front and rear support bars, which prevent the sink from sagging. They are able to keep her from this vicious step, even with a very heavy load. The back plate is of the greatest importance.
Since the sinks have different designs, the dimensions shown in the drawing need to be adjusted. The essence is important: a cutout is made on the bar to fit the bottom of the mixer. From the bottom to the bar, four corners are attached to the screws, forming and continuing the walls of the cutout. Instead of corners, you can use wooden blocks. The outer wall of the "well" should be removable (with screws) for easy installation of the mixer. This design has been repeated several times, and the "well" attachment is suitable for all types of mixers.
In conclusion, a few words about design and connection. As a rule, when connecting, it becomes necessary to drill large holes in the absence of the necessary equipment. The whole operation takes no more than 10-15 minutes. I can suggest a very simple way:
mark the hole (you can use the pipe for which it is drilled);
along the contour of the resulting marking, we drill holes with a 3-4mm drill;
make a light cut with a knife through the center of the holes along the entire contour on both sides;
hammer out the middle with a hammer;
with a round file, align the hole with rotational movements (namely, rotational, if filing, pits will remain).
It is necessary to decorate the cabinet so that it is combined with other furniture that is nearby. It is very desirable to sheathe the door along the contour with a curly rail of a suitable size - this will protect the end of the chipboard. The rest is a matter of taste. Any thing should bear the imprint of the author's personality.
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