Stair Tread Replacement

Stair Tread Replacement
Stair Tread Replacement

Video: Stair Tread Replacement

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Video: How to Update Oak Stair Treads and Risers | Ask This Old House 2023, February
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As a result of prolonged use, scratches, chips and spots appear on the treads, as well as traces of uneven wear and cracks. In all types of stairs, it is easy to replace individual treads, except for the rounded tread of the first step, which requires disassembling the railing and removing the lower support post of the railing. If the staircase is not carpeted, try to match the replacement material to the original. To replace the tread, on which the covering will be laid, take a part of the window sill, which comes with a finished one rounded edge.

You can also make a tread from any soft board by sawing it off to size, rounding the outside edge with a jointer and sanding it. It is easiest to remove the tread from the top as described on this page, however if you do not have access from below, be careful not to dislodge the wedge in the groove in the string. If the wedge is lost, rest the new tread on a 50 x 25 mm block, screwed to the string so that its upper edge is in the same plane with the lower face of the tread.

Removing the old tread

1. Cutting the old tread into three parts. After removing the intermediate balusters, the side band and the overhead side roller, drill the holes to start sawing and make cuts across the tread in two places without touching the upper and lower risers.

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2. Removing parts of the tread. Drive a chisel into the middle of the tread above the riser so that the bead is removed without damaging the ridge of the riser. Move backward gradually, chipping off pieces of the tread. Be especially careful when removing the last few centimeters of the tread, as this is where it is screwed to the rear riser. Then, in the same way, use a mallet and chisel to remove the two remaining parts of the tread by splitting the wood around the nails and removing the nails and screws. Saw off the new tread to size. If the staircase uses connections between the treads and risers in a quarter or in tongue, take these features into account when choosing the width of the tread and make a groove or groove and a ridge in it (you can entrust this work to a qualified carpenter).

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Installing a new tread on an open staircase

1. Markup. Use a metal combination square to mark where to attach the side skim roller to the outside of the new tread. First, draw a line for the mustache from the corner between the outer end and the outer edge of the tread at an angle of 45 degrees, then draw a line parallel to the outer end in accordance with the width of the side cover roller.

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2. Cut out. With a fine-toothed hacksaw with a backing, cut along the line at an angle of 45 degrees, then saw off across the fibers with a fine-toothed hacksaw. You can also saw off the tread with an electric jigsaw by attaching a bar as a guide and flipping the tread so that the top plate is at the bottom. After sawing, work the surfaces with a butt planer and chisel.

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3. Making grooves for a dovetail-type spike connection. Temporarily refit the tread and use a plumb line to mark a point under the center of the hole in the rail. Insert the top end of the handrail post into the hole in the handrail, press the post against the tread so that the center of the post is opposite the plumb line, and mark the angled lines to create the groove. Using a square, continue the lines on the top and bottom of the tread and connect them at right angles at a distance from the end of the tread equal to the thickness of the railing post. Do the same for the other rack. If the handrail posts are designed for a round stud connection, drill the holes using the marks as their centers.

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4. Sawing grooves. With a tenon saw, make cuts along the lines, then saw off at the back with a scoring saw. Trim the corners with a chisel if necessary. If the handrail posts have round tenons, drill holes in the tread with a center drill or brace with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the tenons and a depth of 9 mm.

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5. Setting a new tread. Spread a sufficient amount of PVA glue on the edge of the riser, stringer and in the socket of the bowstring located against the wall. Reposition the tread, then drill three equally spaced holes through the tread into the riser. Install the No. 8 screws with a length of 37 mm, sinking the heads, and cover the holes with putty. Do not walk up the steps for about an hour to harden the glue. Replace the handrail post, side roller and straps as instructed on the previous page.

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6. Securing the tread from below. If access to the bottom of the ladder is available, drill pilot holes through the riser into the tread and install 37mm # 8 screws. Install corner bars along the joint between riser and tread.

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Installing a new tread on a closed staircase

1. Determination of the length of the new tread. Measure the distance across the ladder from the face of one string to the bottom of the groove in the other string. Subtract two to three millimeters for the gap and cut a new tread to that length. If the front tread has a ridge or a quarter is selected to join the old tread, remove the ridge with a chisel and planer. If there is a ridge on the back riser, carefully remove the ridge with a chisel so that the new tread can be easily pushed into place.

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2. Selection of the corner. Using a tenoning saw and chisel, make a notch in one of the front corners of the new tread. The distance from the end of the tread to the edge of the notch should be equal to the depth of the socket in the string. Use a chisel to cut a notch at a distance equal to the overhang of the roller plus 10 mm for the gap. Save the carved corner.

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3. Installing a new tread. Apply PVA glue to the slots, to the edge of the riser and to the bottom of the tread. While holding the notched part of the tread at an angle, insert the notched end into the bowstring slot. The notch will help to push the tread far enough so that it does not snag the roller of the higher tread. Lower the raised edge of the tread over the back riser, then slide it to the side so that the notch is visible. Glue the cut-out corner in place and secure it with a nail, drilling an auxiliary hole so that it does not split. Center the tread, drill the auxiliary holes and secure the tread with # 8 screws, 37 mm long.

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